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Lavender (English) — Lavandula angustifolia — is the most cold-hardy and culinarily versatile of all lavender species, grown for centuries in English cottage gardens and French perfumeries alike for its powerfully fragrant, blue-purple flower spikes that appear in midsummer and can be harvested for sachets, cooking, herbal medicine, or dried arrangements. Unlike the tender French and Spanish lavenders, English lavender is a true hardy perennial in zones 5–8, capable of living 20+ years in the right well-drained site. The dried flower buds are used in baking (lavender shortbread, lavender honey), herbal teas, and as a fragrant addition to sugar or butter. Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are irresistibly drawn to the blooms.
Plant English lavender in a site with full sun and exceptional drainage — standing water, even briefly, kills lavender roots faster than any frost. In clay soils, amend with sharp sand or grit (50% by volume in the planting hole), or plant on a raised berm or raised bed. Set plants 18–24 inches apart; good airflow between plants prevents the botrytis blight that plagues overcrowded specimens. Do not mulch close to the crown — organic mulch holds moisture right where lavender is most vulnerable. Water new transplants regularly for the first season; established plants are drought-tolerant and should be watered only in extended dry spells. Feed once in early spring with a low-nitrogen fertilizer, or scatter a handful of balanced granular fertilizer around the base. The essential annual pruning: in late summer after flowering, cut back by one-third — never into the woody, grey basal stems, which do not regenerate. Lavender that is never pruned becomes woody, bare at the base, and short-lived.
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